The
words, “carved” into faux rock, shout out “Niagara's Fury”. And as you get
closer to the edge, the unfathamable power of the water becomes ever more
palpable – roaring in your ears, reverberating in your body. Once you are at
the railing and see the massive surge flowing past you and over the edge, a
delicious touch of panic arises. It become hard to imagine what it must have
been like to have been the first to install these railings and stone walls, so
close are they to so lethal a force of nature.
Yet in contemplating the three magnificent falls and their millenia-old purpose of wearing away the cliffs to dust on their way to the Atlantic, I sense no fury. There is no anger, no malice, no revenge in Niagara's heart. Anthropomorphizing nature is always a mistake, for the Earth is incapable of such small-mindedness. There is only the timeless quest for equilibrium -- as here at Niagara Falls the waters find their lowest point as part of the global, eternal hydrologic cycle.
Where one does see fury, however, is in the assault upon the senses that is the modern city of Niagara Falls. To say that it is filled with tourist traps would be trite in the extreme. It is worse than that: much of it resembles no “city” I've ever seen, so thoroughly has its core been denuded of any functions that might be of use to its own residents.
One can, however, see traces of what the city once was, and indeed might have been if we lived in a more moderate culture. Several of the main tourist streets are narrow, with most buildings adjacent to the sidewalks, rather than behind parking lots. And quite a few of those buildings appear to be original, hundred-year old houses and former dry goods stores and offices. There is still, almost beyond telling, the echo of the charm and grace that horse-drawn Niagara residents must have once known.
However, these structures are now festooned with an appalling array of junk screaming to passersby about whatever low-rent “attractions” await within. And if this abuse of the cornea wasn't sufficient, almost every business also has inane recorded voices shouting at pedestrians as well.
The upper “downtown” is admittedly less garish, but is almost more depressing. The location of a number of Vegas-inspired hotels and a casino, the district is spectacularly soulless and lacks any visible function not tied to the tourism industry. There is little in the way of services or conventional stores, to say nothing of residences.
Meanwhile, the actual historic downtown on Queen street, many blocks away from the falls and hence the centre of tourism gravity, is undergoing an exciting arts-led renaissance after decades of abandonment. It is a wonderfully charming street filled with galleries and gift shops, and their owners were warm and bravely determined in their commitment to the street. Yet many desolate and empty storefronts remain.
This is because the action of course is the falls, and every business does its best to associate themselves with the massive torrent regardless of their actual proximity to them. Indeed, a number of businesses shamelessly photoshop themselves into absurd adjacency to the falls in their advertising. The pace of development is now appropriately, ”furious”, including a convention Centre and 5 more hotels.
Why this type of city building – which is by turns glitzy, tawdry, tacky and ghastly – should be desired at all here is a bit of a mystery to me.
I may be a grumpy middle-aged man with no sense of fun, but I don't get why, when one of the wonders of the world is at your feet, would anyone wish to go see a wax museum, a museum of criminals, or a haunted house (of which there appear to be at least three)? Unsatisfied or disinclined to appropriately respect what we're seeing, why do we crave more spectacle still?
If, as I say, ours were a more moderate culture, the city of Niagara Falls could have been a very different place. Were the Falls in Denmark or Sweden for example, can you imagine either country turning their nearby cities into cheap theme parks to draw attention to them? Livingston, Zambia overlooks Victoria Falls, and still retains its colonial-era charm.
The reason for this rotten urbanism – which is by all accounts even more excessive on the American side -- may lie at the heart of our culture, and its response to something that is, in turn, at the heart of Niagara Falls, something that is a bit difficult to comprehend, let alone face.
The “deep time” on display is profound. Scientists believe that the Niagara has been wearing away these cliffs for at least 10,000 years, or about as long as human beings have engaged in settlement-building. So on a geologic timescale, they're pretty recent, and, catastrophic climate change notwithstanding, they should continue to do so for thousands of years more, until they have eroded the cliffs to the shores of Lake Erie. That nature operates on such time scales, with no regard whatever for our little lives is – or at least should be – humbling. A modest people wholly comfortable with their own mortality and insignificance within the context of geologic time would draw wisdom from such a spectacle.
But not us. As we snap pictures and buy crappy souvenirs we are probably dimly aware that the powers on display are completely beyond us. We know we are doomed to exist for but an infinitesimal microsecond of the falls' existence, but the cognitive dissonance such knowledge instills in us causes us to turn away and seek something to distract us from that knowledge.
I wonder if this is what lies behind this city, with some of the most furious anti-urbanism I've ever seen. It was a relief to leave this place. The charm of Queen Street and the lovely people I met there notwithstanding, no city has left me feeling more depressed.
The memory of the falls, on the other hand, I will gladly return to for the rest of my brief life.
